Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 9
Release: 2010-02-04
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1139462520

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Ocean Surface Waves

Ocean Surface Waves
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 514
Release: 1996
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9789810221096

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This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists

Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists
Author: Robert G Dean
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Total Pages: 369
Release: 1991-01-23
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9814365696

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This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.

Waves in Ocean Engineering

Waves in Ocean Engineering
Author: M.J. Tucker
Publisher:
Total Pages: 556
Release: 2001
Genre: Computers
ISBN:

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"Waves in Ocean Engineering" covers the whole field of wave studies of interest to applied oceanographers and ocean engineers. It has considerable relevance to coastal engineering. The book is split into 12 sections, the first of which is devoted to the practical applications of wave studies and to the history of wave research. The rest of the book covers the measurement of waves, including remote sensing; the analysis and interpretation of wave data; estimating the properties of the extreme "Design Wave", as well as of the generality of waves for fatigue calculations; waves in finite depth, wave generation by wind and wave forecasting models; non-linear effects, and errors and uncertainties in wave data.

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind
Author: Peter Janssen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 310
Release: 2004-10-28
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0521465400

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This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves

Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
Author: Alexander Babanin
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 479
Release: 2011-05-19
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1139502727

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Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Ocean Waves

Ocean Waves
Author: Michel K. Ochi
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 332
Release: 2005-07-21
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9780521017671

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Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.

Ocean Wave Dynamics For Coastal And Marine Structures

Ocean Wave Dynamics For Coastal And Marine Structures
Author: Vallam Sundar
Publisher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 362
Release: 2021-07-05
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9811236682

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The increase in exploration and exploitation of ocean resources, maritime trade and ocean energy have led to development of new concepts in the study of coastal and marine structures. These developments necessitate comprehensive and in-depth knowledge of ocean wave behavior in the offshore as well as in the nearshore, such as the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects, which help to enlighten our understanding of its influence on coastal and offshore structures.Ocean Wave Dynamics for Coastal and Marine Structures is a recommended textbook for students and researchers in ocean sciences, engineering and related topics. It offers application of theoretical formulae to practical relevance through problem solving. This book will also be invaluable for professionals in ports, offshore and marine industries as well as consulting companies.

Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes

Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes
Author: Open University. Oceanography Course Team
Publisher: Pergamon
Total Pages: 196
Release: 1989
Genre: Science
ISBN:

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This is the fourth Volume of the six Volume Open University set. Each Volume is used by students as a relevant part of the Open University course in the UK, but designed so that it can equally be used as an individual text book. This Volume describes waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water and unusual waves. It also considers mainly theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition of currents, wave estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides and river flow in deltas. Concludes with a look at shelf-sea processes and their mineral resources. Each Volume in this set is well laid out and copiously illustrated with full colour photographs, graphs and graphics. Questions to help develop arguments and/or understanding can be found in the text and at the end of each chapter, with worked answers provided at the back of each Volume. Each chapter also concludes with a summary to help consolidate understanding before the next chapter is begun.