Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms (In 2 Parts)

Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms (In 2 Parts)
Author: Maarten W Dingemans
Publisher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 1015
Release: 1997-01-07
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9814506583

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The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation.

Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms

Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms
Author: Maarten W. Dingemans
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated
Total Pages: 471
Release: 1997
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9789810204266

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The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts, part 1 covering primarily linear wave propagation, and part 2 covering on nonlinear wave propagation.

Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms

Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms
Author: James Thornton Kirby
Publisher:
Total Pages: 102
Release: 1985
Genre: Diffraction
ISBN:

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In Part I of this report, a time dependent form of the reduced wave equation of Berkhoff is developed for the case of water waves propagating over a bed consisting of ripples superimposed on an otherwise slowly varying mean depth which satisfies the mild slope assumption. The ripples are assumed to have wavelengths on the order of the surface wave length but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter along with the bottom slope. The theory is verified by showing that it reduces to the case of plane waves propagating over a non-dimensional, infinite patch of sinusoidal ripples, studied recently by Davis and Heathershaw and Mei. We then study two cases of interest--formulation and use of the coupled parabolic equations for propagation over patches of arbitrary form in order to study wave reflection, and propagation of trapped waves along an infinite ripple patch. In the second part, we use the results of Part 1 to extend the results for weakly-nonlinear wave propagation to the case of partial reflection from bottoms with mild-sloping mean depth with superposed small amplitude undulations. Keywords include: Combined refraction-diffraction, Linear Surface Waves, Shallow and intermediate water depths, and Wave reflection.

Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (In 2 Parts)

Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (In 2 Parts)
Author: Chiang C Mei
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Total Pages: 1135
Release: 2005-07-26
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 981436570X

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This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded version, three chapters on recent developments have been added. The first is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry. The second is on Zakharov's theory of nonlinear wave fields with broad spectra. The third is an extensive discussion of powerful numerical techniques for highly nonlinear waves. Other new topics include infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 9
Release: 2010-02-04
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1139462520

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.