The New French Couture

The New French Couture
Author: Elyssa Dimant
Publisher: HarperCollins
Total Pages: 320
Release: 2016-11-08
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0062216007

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A gorgeous, groundbreaking survey of the evolution of the world’s renowned French ateliers, from the vision of their founding designers to those today who both preserve the signature iconographies and bring their own interpretations to bear on modern couture fashion. The world awaits Paris’s flawless fashion presentations year after year, just as the evolutionary arc of French fashion grows richer with each season and each new talent. The New French Couture identifies those fashion leaders whose long-standing ateliers have persevered, and whose current creative pioneers continue to reinvent the signature iconographies upon which each house was founded. Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, Lanvin, Givenchy, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga have all made undeniable contributions to fashion, both historically and today, through their distinct and potent visions. With more than two hundred images by fashion’s top photographers, this beautifully designed volume provides an exclusive tour through the evolutions of these eight ateliers, revealing each brand via an encapsulated history of definitive looks and fashion moments. Fashion icon and blogger Leandra Medine contributes to an exposition that highlights designers who have carved out new visions for French luxury in the contemporary era, including Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Céline, Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Azzedine Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto, among others. The New French Couture is a comprehensive survey of the revolutionary creative talents who are bringing their genius to bear on the City of Light today via the ateliers that have defined and defended fashion for nearly a century.

Paris Haute Couture

Paris Haute Couture
Author: Anne Zazzo
Publisher: Rizzoli Publications
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2013-02-05
Genre: Design
ISBN: 2080201387

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A comprehensive history of high fashion in Paris from Madame Grès and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent and Yohji Yamamoto, spanning all aspects from clothing and accessories to perfume. Ever since Charles Frederick Worth dressed the Empress Eugénie in the 1860s, launching a "golden century" for dressmaking, Parisian haute couture has been a source of endless admiration and fascination. Its emphasis on exquisite design and meticulous craftsmanship propelled it to the forefront of the fashion industry. The position and practices of haute couture may have evolved over time, but the work of many contemporary couturiers reveals a strong sense of continuity, from the creations of Jeanne Lanvin and Christian Dior, through to their modern counterparts in Jean-Paul Gaultier or Viktor & Rolf. This chronological study traces the history of the esteemed couture houses of Paris, examining the role of the designer and the extraordinary craftsmanship behind the finished creations, the place of haute couture in Parisian culture, and its influence in the wider fashion industry. Particular attention is paid to the relationship between haute couture and the client, as well as the dualities in modern haute couture—its sense of exclusivity and quasi-mythical aura countered by an ever-increasing reach into popular consciousness and attainability. This volume is richly illustrated with images of the most superb pieces created by exceptional designers. Various incarnations of Chanel’s timeless quilted handbag, Fath’s charmingly patterned silk scarves, and Poiret’s elegant perfume bottles demonstrate that haute couture encompasses far more than just clothing.

Paris Fashion

Paris Fashion
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 344
Release: 2017-09-21
Genre: Design
ISBN: 1474245498

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Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion.

The New French Couture

The New French Couture
Author: Elyssa Dimant
Publisher: HarperCollins
Total Pages: 321
Release: 2016-11-08
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0062216007

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A gorgeous, groundbreaking survey of the evolution of the world’s renowned French ateliers, from the vision of their founding designers to those today who both preserve the signature iconographies and bring their own interpretations to bear on modern couture fashion. The world awaits Paris’s flawless fashion presentations year after year, just as the evolutionary arc of French fashion grows richer with each season and each new talent. The New French Couture identifies those fashion leaders whose long-standing ateliers have persevered, and whose current creative pioneers continue to reinvent the signature iconographies upon which each house was founded. Saint Laurent, Dior, Chanel, Lanvin, Givenchy, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga have all made undeniable contributions to fashion, both historically and today, through their distinct and potent visions. With more than two hundred images by fashion’s top photographers, this beautifully designed volume provides an exclusive tour through the evolutions of these eight ateliers, revealing each brand via an encapsulated history of definitive looks and fashion moments. Fashion icon and blogger Leandra Medine contributes to an exposition that highlights designers who have carved out new visions for French luxury in the contemporary era, including Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Céline, Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Azzedine Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto, among others. The New French Couture is a comprehensive survey of the revolutionary creative talents who are bringing their genius to bear on the City of Light today via the ateliers that have defined and defended fashion for nearly a century.

Elegance: The Beauty of French Fashion

Elegance: The Beauty of French Fashion
Author: Megan Hess
Publisher: Hardie Grant Publishing
Total Pages: 339
Release: 2019-10-01
Genre: Design
ISBN: 1743586647

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Join internationally renowned fashion illustrator Megan Hess as she explores the timeless beauty and glamour of ten of France's best-loved designers in a stylish celebration of one of the world’s favourite fashion destinations. From the courts of Versailles to the cobbled streets of Paris, French fashion has always been the epitome of elegance. Whether it's Dior's New Look, Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking jacket or Chanel's little black dress, the masters of French fashion understand that clothing is more than a craft: it’s an art form. Megan Hess’s love for French style sparked her career in fashion illustration. In these pages, she unspools the threads of ten legendary designers – Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Givenchy, Chloé, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Celine – to discover the origins of haute couture, prêt-à-porter and everything chic. Accompanied by Megan’s exquisite illustrations of current and archival collections, Elegance: The Beauty of French Fashion tells the story of how France’s iconic fashion houses have influenced the very fabric of design.

Women of Singular Beauty

Women of Singular Beauty
Author:
Publisher:
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2018
Genre: Fashion design
ISBN: 9780847860425

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A celebration of Chanel haute couture photographed by one of fashion's most acclaimed hotographers. As the fashion cognoscenti would say, there's magic in true haute couture--the creations that entail thousands of hours of handwork, crafting, embellishing. In an exclusive shoot with the house of Chanel, photographer Cathleen Naundorf gained rare access to their physical archives to photograph couture gowns against theatrical backdrops. The result: a book of ethereal, cinematic photographs that capture the exquisiteness of the ensembles and the magical allure of haute couture. This is what sartorial dreams are made of. For more than two decades, Naundorf has used her expert photographic skills to pay homage to the haute couture aesthetic. Combining her experiences in travel, art, and photojournalism, Naundorf elaborately arranges each detail of her photographs, using storyboards and extensively researching the lighting, setting, backdrops, props, hairpieces, makeup, and design for every image. Each photograph is a singular vision suggesting romance, surrealism, exoticism, and above all else, fantasy.

Dressing Modern Frenchwomen

Dressing Modern Frenchwomen
Author: Mary Lynn Stewart
Publisher: JHU Press
Total Pages: 324
Release: 2008-03-31
Genre: Business & Economics
ISBN: 0801888034

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At a glance, high fashion and feminism seem unlikely partners. Between the First and Second World Wars, however, these forces combined femininity and modernity to create the new, modern French woman. In this engaging study, Mary Lynn Stewart reveals the fashion industry as an integral part of women's transition into modernity. Analyzing what female columnists in fashion magazines and popular women novelists wrote about the "new silhouette," Stewart shows how bourgeois women feminized the more severe, masculine images that elite designers promoted to create a hybrid form of modern that both emancipated women and celebrated their femininity. She delves into the intricacies of marketing the new clothes and the new image to middle-class women and examines the nuts and bolts of a changing industry—including textile production, relationships between suppliers and department stores, and privacy and intellectual property issues surrounding ready-to-wear couture designs. Dressing Modern Frenchwomen draws from thousands of magazine covers, advertisements, fashion columns, and features to uncover and untangle the fascinating relationships among the fashion industry, the development of modern marketing techniques, and the evolution of the modern woman as active, mobile, and liberated.

Dressing Up

Dressing Up
Author: Elizabeth L. Block
Publisher: MIT Press
Total Pages: 291
Release: 2021-10-19
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0262365561

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How wealthy American women--as consumers and as influencers--helped shape French couture of the late nineteenth century; lavishly illustrated. French fashion of the late nineteenth century is known for its allure, its ineffable chic--think of John Singer Sargent's Madame X and her scandalously slipping strap. For Parisian couturiers and their American customers, it was also serious business. In Dressing Up, Elizabeth Block examines the couturiers' influential clientele--wealthy American women who bolstered the French fashion industry with a steady stream of orders from the United States. Countering the usual narrative of the designer as solo creative genius, Block shows that these women--as high-volume customers and as pre-Internet influencers--were active participants in the era's transnational fashion system. Block describes the arrival of nouveau riche Americans on the French fashion scene, joining European royalty, French socialites, and famous actresses on the client rosters of the best fashion houses--Charles Frederick Worth, Doucet, and Félix, among others. She considers the mutual dependence of couture and coiffure; the participation of couturiers in international expositions (with mixed financial results); the distinctive shopping practices of American women, which ranged from extensive transatlantic travel to quick trips downtown to the department store; the performance of conspicuous consumption at balls and soirées; the impact of American tariffs on the French fashion industry; and the emergence of smuggling, theft, and illicit copying of French fashions in the American market as the middle class emulated the preferences of the rich. Lavishly illustrated, with vibrant images of dresses, portraits, and fashion plates, Dressing Up reveals the power of American women in French couture. Winner of the Aileen Ribeiro Grant of the Association of Dress Historians; an Association for Art History grant; and a Pasold Research Fund grant.

Paris Fashion and World War Two

Paris Fashion and World War Two
Author: Lou Taylor
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 360
Release: 2020-01-09
Genre: Art
ISBN: 1350000280

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In 1939, fashion became an economic and symbolic sphere of great importance in France. Invasive textile legislation, rationing and threats from German and American couturiers were pushing the design and trade of Parisian style to its limits. It is widely accepted that French fashion was severely curtailed as a result, isolated from former foreign clients and deposed of its crown as global queen of fashion. This pioneering book offers a different story. Arguing that Paris retained its hold on the international haute couture industry right throughout WWII, eminent dress historians and curators come together to show that, amid political, economic and cultural traumas, Paris fashion remained very much alive under the Nazi occupation – and on an international level. Bringing exciting perspectives to challenge a familiar story and introducing new overseas trade links out of occupied France, this book takes us from the salons of renowned couturiers such as Edward Molyneux and Robert Piguet, French Vogue and Le Jardin des Modes and luxury Lyon silk factories, to Rio de Janeiro, Denmark and Switzerland, and the great American department stores of New York. Also comparing extravagant Paris occupation styles to austerity fashions of the UK and USA, parallel industrial and design developments highlight the unresolvable tension between luxury fashion and the everyday realities of wartime life. Showing that Paris strove to maintain world dominance as leader of couture through fashion journalism, photography and exported fashion forecasting, Paris Fashion and World War Two makes a significant contribution to the cultural history of fashion.

Paris to New York

Paris to New York
Author: Véronique Pouillard
Publisher: Harvard University Press
Total Pages: 337
Release: 2021-05-04
Genre: Business & Economics
ISBN: 0674237404

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An innovative history of the fashion industry, focusing on the connections between Paris and New York, art and finance, and design and manufacturing. Fashion is one of the most dynamic industries in the world, with an annual retail value of $3 trillion and globally recognized icons like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. How did this industry generate such economic and symbolic capital? Focusing on the roles of entrepreneurs, designers, and institutions in fashion’s two most important twentieth-century centers, Paris to New York tells the history of the industry as a negotiation between art and commerce. In the late nineteenth century, Paris-based firms set the tone for a global fashion culture nurtured by artistic visionaries. In the burgeoning New York industry, however, the focus was on mass production. American buyers, trend scouts, and designers crossed the Atlantic to attend couture openings, where they were inspired by, and often accused of counterfeiting, designs made in Paris. For their part, Paris couturiers traveled to New York to understand what American consumers wanted and to make deals with local manufacturers for whom they designed exclusive garments and accessories. The cooperation and competition between the two continents transformed the fashion industry in the early and mid-twentieth century, producing a hybrid of art and commodity. Véronique Pouillard shows how the Paris–New York connection gave way in the 1960s to a network of widely distributed design and manufacturing centers. Since then, fashion has diversified. Tastes are no longer set by elites alone, but come from the street and from countercultures, and the business of fashion has transformed into a global enterprise.