Surf Odyssey

Surf Odyssey
Author: Andrew Groves
Publisher: Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2016
Genre: Surfers
ISBN: 9783899556537
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"Cold-water surfing, the most remote surf spots, spectacular photography, illustrations, and custom boards: Surf Odyssey documents the modern cult of surfing as its own subculture and way of life. There's much more to surfing than palm trees and beach boy cliches. People surf not only in Hawaii, but also in Norway, South Korea, and India. Surf Odyssey is a book about the world of surfing today and those that live in it. This community is made up of the surfers themselves as well as surf photographers and board builders who are also spreading its distinctive spirit into other creative fields. Comparable to the new outdoor movement, today's surfing is about an attitude toward life, a lust for adventure, and a love of nature that one can only find far away from established spots. Surf Odyssey presents this scene's places, people, stories, and brands. Its stunning photography is sure to inspire many further surfing exploits."

Surf, Sweat and Tears

Surf, Sweat and Tears
Author: Andy Martin
Publisher: OR Books
Total Pages: 232
Release: 2020-03
Genre: True Crime
ISBN: 1682192334
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“I don’t normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote, with shorts.” —Lee Child “Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes.” —Matt Warshaw “A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre—skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players." —Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave This is the true story of Ted, Viscount Deerhurst, the son of the Earl of Coventry and an American ballerina who dedicated his life to becoming a professional surfer. Surfing was a means of escape, from England, from the fraught charges of nobility, from family, and, often, from his own demons. Ted was good on the board, but never made it to the very highest ranks of a sport that, like most, treats second-best as nowhere at all. He kept on surfing, ending up where all surfers go to live or die, the paradise of Hawaii. There, in search of the “perfect woman,” he fell in love with a dancer called Lola, who worked in a Honolulu nightclub. The problem with paradise, as he was soon to discover, is that gangsters always get there first. Lola already had a serious boyfriend, a man who went by the name of Pit Bull. Ted was given fair warning to stay away. But he had a besetting sin, for which he paid the heaviest price: He never knew when to give up. Surf, Sweat and Tears takes us into the world of global surfing, revealing a dark side beneath the dazzling sun and cream-crested waves. Here is surf noir at its most compelling, a dystopian tale of one man’s obsessions, wiped out in a grisly true crime.

Riding the Magic Carpet

Riding the Magic Carpet
Author: Tom Anderson
Publisher: Summersdale Publishers LTD
Total Pages: 274
Release: 2006-06-01
Genre: Travel
ISBN: 0857654217
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"The right-hand point at Jeffreys Bay is one of the surfing world's most exciting finds, and from the age of twelve it had been my life's purpose to surf there." J-Bay, South Africa, has the fantasy, the almost mythical waves every surfer dreams of riding once in their lifetime. But Tom wouldn't go until he was ready. He would seek out surf-spots from the virgin reef-breaks of the Outer Orkneys to the temple point-breaks of Indonesia, from the beautiful beaches of France to the wilds of Sri Lanka, on his quest to ride the waves of his dreams. Get on the road, get stoked, and get in the water.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
Total Pages: 466
Release: 2016-04-26
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN: 0143109391
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

John Severson's Surf

John Severson's Surf
Author: John Severson
Publisher: Damiani/Puka Puka
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2014
Genre: Sports & Recreation
ISBN: 9788862083263
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John Severson (born 1933) revolutionized pop culture's vision of surfing and surf culture through his prolific artistic output that transverses decades and disciplines. He began his career as a painter, selling his canvases at Long Beach State College. These first works consisted of oil paintings, photographs, drawings and prints relating to Hawaiian and Californian surf culture. In 1958, Severson expanded his repertoire and created a series of popular surf movies, such as Surf Safari, Surf Fever, Big Wednesday and Pacific Vibrations. While his were among the first surf movies, it was the posters associated with them, hugely popular when issued in the 1950s and 1960s, that remain collector favorites today. Showcased in these early posters, his graphic skills translated easily to Surfer magazine, which he founded in 1960. The magazine was the first to celebrate and revolutionize the art and sport of surfing, establishing it as a powerful pop culture phenomenon. The first issue was a 36-page collection of black-and-white photos, cartoon sketches and short articles--every aspect of which was created by Severson himself. His photographs appeared in Life, Sports Illustrated, Paris Match and other print venues. John Severson's SURF explores Severson's surf odyssey through painting, photography, film and publishing. Featuring an interview with the artist by Nathan Howe, artist and curator at Puka Puka, Hawaii, foreword by Gerry Lopez, surfer and co-founder of Lightning Bolt surfboards and afterword by Drew Kampion, author and former editor of Surfer, John Severson's SURF documents the birth of surf culture and serves as a testament to our ocean.

Surfing the South

Surfing the South
Author: Steve Estes
Publisher: UNC Press Books
Total Pages: 214
Release: 2022-02-23
Genre: Sports & Recreation
ISBN: 1469667789
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When most Americans think of surfing, they often envision waves off the coasts of California, Hawai'i, or even New Jersey. What few know is that the South has its own surf culture. To fully explore this unsung surfing world, Steve Estes undertook a journey that stretched more than 2,300 miles, traveling from the coast of Texas to Ocean City, Maryland. Along the way he interviewed and surfed alongside dozens of people—wealthy and poor, men and women, Black and white—all of whom opened up about their lives, how they saw themselves, and what the sport means to them. They also talked about race, class, the environment, and how surfing has shaped their identities. The cast includes a retired Mississippi riverboat captain and alligator hunter who was one of the first to surf the Gulf Coast of Louisiana, a Pensacola sheet-metal worker who ran the China Beach Surf Club while he was stationed in Vietnam, and a Daytona Beach swimsuit model who shot the curl in the 1966 World Surfing Championships before circumnavigating the globe in search of waves and adventure. From these varied and surprising stories emerge a complex, sometimes troubling, but nevertheless beautiful picture of the modern South and its people.

Surf Therapy

Surf Therapy
Author: Cash Lambert
Publisher: Hatherleigh Press
Total Pages: 263
Release: 2024-04-30
Genre: Health & Fitness
ISBN: 1961293013
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A deep look into the surf therapy movement, the therapists at the forefront of this radical new treatment, and its many applications for treating anxiety, PTSD, and more. Surfing? As a form of therapy? It’s not just possible—it’s powerful. Surf therapy is an emerging field with promising results which aims to address the mental, physical and emotional epidemics of the modern age. In Surf Therapy, author Cash Lambert paddles out with today’s leading surf therapy practitioners and surf therapy organizations to discover how surfing is changing lives for the better. See how much surf therapy can help in treating: • Drug addiction and addiction recovery • Children and adults diagnosed with autism • Social development of at-risk inner-city children • Physical disabilities like spinal cord injuries • PTSD in active-duty police officers • Terminal illnesses like cystic fibrosis • Women recovering from abusive living situations With interviews from today’s leading surf therapy practitioners and data from groundbreaking studies, Surf Therapy is a story of science, resilience, and the lengths that humans will go to help one another in need.

Chasing Waves

Chasing Waves
Author: Amy Waeschle
Publisher: ReadHowYouWant.com
Total Pages: 250
Release: 2009-06-02
Genre: Large type books
ISBN: 1442995661
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With a fresh voice and surf-saturated daydreams, this author celebrates the joys of traveling around the world to feed her surfing addiction.

Mine

Mine
Author: James Russell
Publisher: Dragon Brothers Books
Total Pages: 174
Release: 2023-07-21
Genre: Fiction
ISBN: 0473559366
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Murder and madness in the tropics. A back-packer's nightmare. Twenty-six-year-old Jimmy Brennan’s life has taken a turn for the worse, and he’s desperate to numb the pain. When his mother dies and his girlfriend betrays him, it’s the final straw; he leaves Australia behind, bound for Bali. But Jimmy’s demons chase him. Sickened by the filth and the rapacious tourists swarming the Indonesian holiday island, Jimmy escapes north up the archipelago, driven by a desire to be alone, and haunted by a self-destructive impulse. When he’s offered the opportunity to surf the outer reefs of the forbidden island of North Sentinel, home of a forgotten tribe which has violently rejected outside contact for centuries, Jimmy is reckless enough to take it. He finds his paradise, but it’s a decision that will have deadly consequences. “Exceptional!” - Ray Bisschop, publishing director, Surfing Life “Kicks along at a freight-train pace!” - Luke Kennedy, editor, Tracks magazine "They don't write them like this any more." - North and South magazine "Addictive and highly recommended!" - Otago Daily Times "Captivating and fast-paced!" - NZ Booklovers "One hell of a ride!" - The New Zealand Herald "Fast-paced and utterly immersive, with passages that will have your heart leaping into your throat. This is ‘Breath’ meets ‘The Beach’, but also a unique tale in its own right that will stay with the reader long after they read the last page." Eileen Merriman, best-selling author of Violet Black and The Silence of Snow. Reader reviews: "You'll find yourself on the edge of your seat for the duration." - Tom Marr "Thoroughly absorbing from start to finish... if you have an ounce of adventure left in your soul, then this book may be for you." - Simon Hurley "A future classic."- Justin Moor "Dark escapism from our toxic matrix." - Andrew Briggs "Readers of Tim Winton and Evie Wyld will find a direct descendant in James Russell."- Robin Taylor "Couldn't put it down" - Ken Nicolson "Gripping" - Shayne William "Intense" - Marco Milardi "Visceral" - Caleb Clarke "Sure to become a classic" - Steve Brecht "Electrifying!" - Justin Brown

Surf Like a Girl

Surf Like a Girl
Author: Carolina Amell
Publisher: National Geographic Books
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2019-10-01
Genre: Sports & Recreation
ISBN: 379138595X
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Whether they're threading a barrel or shredding a swell, these amazing women are making enormous waves in the world of surfing. If you thought surfing was a male-dominated sport, think again. The thirty women surfers profiled in this thrilling collection can rip a wave with the best of them. Hailing from all over the world, each surfer is featured in spectacular photography and with their own inspirational words. There's American professional surfer Lindsay Steinriede on how her father's death has inspired her career; French board shaper Valerie Duprat on how she got her start "sculpting foam"; Conchita Rossler, founder of Mooana Retreat in Portugal, on connecting mind, body, and spirit; and Australian photographer Cait Miers on empowering women. You'll also meet surfers who are over sixty, who surf while pregnant, who captain boats, teach yoga, and make movies. Breathtaking photography captures these women from every angle, on and off the waves, in some of the world's most visually stunning locations. The perfect gift for surfing enthusiasts, this unique compilation of stunning pictures and hard-won wisdom proves that the thrill of catching a wave, riding it, and kicking out belongs to everyone.